Today's Surf - Wednesday 19th June 2024 - Right At The Edge Of My Ability Level?

The entire east coast of Australia is being hit with massive southerly swells right now and there are good surfers getting the rides of their lives at any given spot. I wanted some so bad, and scoping it this arvo I felt like there was a slight lull in the size of the swell on the changing tide and that I should hit it?

I was hoping for a smaller sneaky A frame outside of the set, but after taking a heavy wipeout on my very first wave I got super apprehensive. I let a hundred other good waves go past me until I had the balls to go for it again. Got a couple ok ones in and then got trapped inside and as my duck diving progressed from sloppy to sloppier, as I got more and more lethargic, I finally acknowledged defeat and came in.

Stoked I went out, but definitely didn't feel comfortable being the only one out there in conditions right at the edge of my ability levels.

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